How to Dice Ginger  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Beauty & Personal Care
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How to Dice Ginger
By Ashley Schlax
How to Dice Gingerthumbnail How to Dice Ginger

Ginger root is a great spice — easy to store and prepare. As a root, it’s very fibrous and thick. Because of the texture, it’s better to manually dice ginger than to use an automatic chopper, such as a food processor. Also, ginger is very potent and manual dicing allows you to control the size of the pieces.

To Dice Ginger You’ll Need:

  • Chopping knife
  • Cutting board
  • Peeler (optional)
  • Spoon (optional)

To Dice Ginger Instructions:

  • Peel the skin off of the portion of ginger you plan to use with a knife, a vegetable peeler or a spoon. To use a spoon, simply scrape along the ginger with the inside of the spoon, making sure to reach into the crevices with the edge. The skin will come off easily and less of the ginger will be wasted.
  • Use your knife to cut the ginger into thin slices.
  • Stack the slices like a deck of cards.
  • Cut lengthwise to slice the stack into thin strips. Turn the pile and chop from one end to the other, dicing the strips into the desired size.
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How to Make a Sweater Softer  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Beauty & Personal Care
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How to Make a Sweater Softer
By Laura Jerpi
How to Make a Sweater Softerthumbnail No one enjoys wearing an itchy sweater.

One of the best things about cold weather is bundling up in a big, cozy sweater. Unfortunately, many sweaters are made of itchy material that makes them uncomfortable to wear and the exact opposite of cozy. If you have an itchy sweater that you would like to transform into comfortable attire, there are things you can do to make it softer and more comfortable.

To Make a Sweater Softer Instructions:

  • Fill a basin with warm, but not hot, water. Place the sweater in the basin and let it soak until it is completely wet.
  • Take the sweater out of the basin, lay it flat on a towel and press the excess water out of it.
  • Fill the basin with warm, but not hot, water once again. Put two tablespoon of conditioner for “normal” hair into the water.
  • Soak the sweater in the basin for approximately 10 minutes, letting it absorb the conditioner.
  • Remove the sweater from the basin. Lay it flat on a towel, making sure not to twist or wring it, as this may cause it to lose its shape.
  • Gently pat the excess water out of the sweater with another towel. Allow it to air dry. After it has dried, the sweater should feel softer on your skin.
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How to Dry Out Squirrel Skin  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Beauty & Personal Care
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How to Dry Out Squirrel Skin
By Siobhan Higgins
How to Dry Out Squirrel Skinthumbnail Handle squirrel pelts carefully. The skin is thin and can be punctured easily.

Drying squirrel skin is the first step to long-term preservation whether you choose to mount the pelt or if the goal is to dry tan to make it like leather and flexible. The purpose of the drying process is to make sure all of the guts, membranes and inside organs of the squirrel have been removed, thereby preventing bacterial growth.

To Dry Out Squirrel Skin You’ll Need:

  • Squirrel hide
  • Wood work surface
  • Staple gun
  • Staples
  • Non-iodized salt

To Dry Out Squirrel Skin Instructions:

  • Lay squirrel skin hair side down on a wood surface. With staple gun, staple the pelt close to the edges onto the wood work surface.
  • Liberally apply non-iodized salt onto the exposed skin with your fingers. Leave no skin unsalted as it will be unprotected.
  • Reapply non-iodized salt as the skin becomes moist. Allow the non-iodized salt to stay on the skin curing it for 10 to 14 days, during which time all moisture will have dried.
  • Remove the salt from the hide with your fingers.
To Dry Out Squirrel Skin Warnings:
  • Do not hold the skin in the same spot for a long period of time to avoid hair slippage.
  • Do not store the dried hide in a plastic bag.
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How to Estimate Division Problems  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Fitness
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How to Estimate Division Problems
By Jacob Nomi
How to Estimate Division Problemsthumbnail Estimating is a good first step for solving division problems.

Division problems are often a lot easier to solve than they may seem, if you start by estimating an answer. The divisors and dividends in both short and long division problems can be rounded, or simply examined, to get to a fairly close approximation of the correct answer. Once you’ve gotten an idea of where to start, arriving at the final quotient is relatively simple.

To Estimate Division Problems You’ll Need:

  • Multiplication Table (optional)

To Estimate Division Problems Instructions:

  • Round the divisor and dividend up or down to make challenging problems more manageable. For example, in the problem 43,879/2,847, if you round the dividend up to 44,000 and the divisor up to 3,000, you can estimate that the solution should be close to 15 as 3 x 15 = 45. Doing the math, the answer is 15.41.
  • Look for patterns that are familiar to you. To solve 35,428/5,928, recognizing that 6 x 6 = 36, allows you to estimate very quickly. The actual solution is 5.98.
  • Examine the divisor, simplify it and check for multiples that are close to the value of the dividend. In the example, 74,833/77, there are two options: if you round the divisor up to 80, your estimate of 9 will be based on 8 x 9 = 72 and rounding down to 70, your estimate of 10 will be based on 7 x 10 = 70. The actual quotient is 971.86, so either estimate is useful.
To Estimate Division Problems Tips:
  • Your estimate can be used to double-check your actual computation, and help find minor mistakes in subtraction.
  • If you’re not comfortable with the multiplication rules used in estimating division, having a times table with you can make learning to estimate much easier.
To Estimate Division Problems Warnings:
  • Estimating how many items you can buy in a store is a good practical application of this skill, but be sure to round down your numbers so you don’t spend more than you have.
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How to Attach a Lavatory Drain  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Fitness
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How to Attach a Lavatory Drain
By Jessica Mahoney
How to Attach a Lavatory Drainthumbnail Lavatory drains allow gray water to flow from the sink basin to the septic system.

Lavatory drains, or bathroom sink drains, are designed with a mechanical stopper to control the flow of water that is drained from the lavatory. The lavatory drain’s mechanical stopper, when closed, holds water in the lavatory bowl. A new lavatory drain will give the bathroom an updated and modern look. Lavatory drains are manufactured using different materials, such as plastic and brass. They are also available in several different styles and finishes. Chrome is the most common lavatory finish used. The lavatory drain is commonly sold with lavatory faucets, but you can also purchase the drain separately.

To Attach a Lavatory Drain You’ll Need:

  • Plumber’s putty
  • Teflon tape
  • Pliers
  • Adjustable wrench

To Attach a Lavatory Drain Instructions:

  • Apply plumber’s putty to the underside of the lavatory drain flange. Knead the putty until it is soft and tacky.
  • Slide the drain flange into the lavatory drain hole while applying slight downward pressure to the drain flange. This method helps hold the drain flange in place while assembling the lavatory drain.
  • Push the tapered rubber gasket fully onto the drain flange threads, followed by the large plastic washer.
  • Screw the lock-nut onto the drain flange threads, turning the nut clockwise. Thread the nut up to the plastic washer; do not tighten the lock nut.
  • Place the small plastic washer into the lavatory drain body.
  • Apply Teflon tape to the threads of the drain flange. Wrap the tape counterclockwise to prevent the tape from backing off of the threads.
  • Screw the drain body onto the drain flange threads, turning clockwise. Hold the drain flange with pliers and tighten the drain body with another pair of pliers.
  • Turn the drain flange and body assembly so the drain lever hole is facing rearward toward the lavatory drain lift rod hole.
  • Tighten the drain flange lock-nut with pliers; remove the excess putty from around the drain flange.
  • Slide the stopper into the lavatory drain assembly. Align the hole in the bottom of the stopper with the ball lever hole in the drain body.
  • Slide the plastic ball lever washer into the drain body and slide the ball lever into the drain body.
  • The tip of the ball lever is slid through the hole in the bottom of the lavatory stopper.
  • Slide the knurled nut onto the ball lever and hand-tighten the nut.
  • Slide the lift rod down through the hole in the faucet or the vanity top. Slide the connecting link onto the lift rod and tighten the set bolt with an adjustable wrench.
  • Slide the V-clip and connecting link onto the ball lever simultaneously, Squeeze the V-clip to slide it onto the ball lever.
  • Apply Teflon tape to the tailpiece threads; wrap the tape counterclockwise to prevent the tape from backing off of the threads.
  • Screw the tail piece into the drain body and tighten with pliers.
  • Install the P-trap, pour water into the drain and check for leaks. Use a P-trap that installs with a nut to make it easy to disassemble the trap if repairs are required.
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How to Develop a Powerful Mindset  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Fitness
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How to Develop a Powerful Mindset
By Holly Thrasher
How to Develop a Powerful Mindsetthumbnail Developing a powerful mindset requires effort.

When the human mind is clear and focuses on positive thoughts, the results are often very empowering. Several simple steps can help anyone to develop a powerful mindset to conquer negative thoughts, challenging situations, and self-doubt.

To Develop a Powerful Mindset You’ll Need:

  • Quiet space
  • A few moments to think

To Develop a Powerful Mindset Instructions:

  • Locate a place where you can spend several moments enjoying silence or a reduced level of noise. If you are not able to actually withdraw to a silent room, find a way to incorporate silence or stillness into your day. This will help you focus your attention on internal, rather than external, noise. For example, if you are accustomed to listening to music on your morning commute, try abandoning this routine — for at least a few minutes — to clear your mind.
  • Listen to your “self-talk” (the thoughts you share with only yourself). If you often doubt that situations will have positive outcomes or you blame yourself for things that are outside of your control, then try to reframe these thoughts. Do not doubt that there can be a positive outcome for a situation; rather, assume there will be. Do not blame yourself for things you cannot control; rather, take responsibility for the things you can. Finally, be aware of self-talk that demeans you. Reject self-talk that speaks to you in a way in which you would never address a friend.
  • Affirmations can help you achieve a powerful mindset. Affirm your individual power by repeating affirmations either aloud or silently, e.g., “It is easy for me to accept challenges. I trust that I am able to solve problems and cope in a healthy way.” Such affirmations can be both valuable and potentially lifesaving — according to the Mayo Clinic, people who exercise these techniques often enjoy longer life spans, less depression and reduced likelihood of heart conditions.
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How to Tan a Bear Skin  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Hair Removal & Tanning, Weight Management & Body Image
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How to Tan a Bear Skin
By JenniferH
How to Tan a Bear Skinthumbnail Tan a bear’s skin to make full use of your prey.

Tanning an animal skin is a way to preserve it, which means you can make resourceful use of the animal while creating a usable product. Tanning allows for the creation of an array of products, from shoes to saddles. In addition, many hunters will tan an animal so she can display her catch in the home or office. Bear skins are no exception. As long as you have adequate space to do the job, you can begin with the full carcass.

To Tan a Bear Skin You’ll Need:

  • Utility knife
  • Non iodized salt
  • Aluminum salt
  • Baking soda
  • Gloves
  • Tanning oil

To Tan a Bear Skin Instructions:

  • Turn the bear ears inside out, then split the animal’s lips and eyes. Remove the cartilage inside the nose. This will prevent spoilage.
  • Using a utility knife, very slowly skin the bear. Take great care to make sure that all flesh is removed, including all the skin that is around the face and claws.
  • Cover the skin side with a one inch layer of non-iodized salt and rub in. Let the salt sit for 24 hours. At the end of the 24 hours, shake off the salt and repeat this step with fresh salt.
  • Pour 1 1/2 pounds of aluminum salt into a trash can or utility bath full of water. Place the hide into this mixture, submerging completely. Let it soak for six to seven days. When it is done soaking, remove and rinse with cold water, taking care to remove any residue left from the salt.
  • Make a neutralizing solution with one ounce of baking soda for every gallon of water. Soak the hide in this solution for 20 minutes to nullify the acid from the aluminum salt. Remove the hide from the solution and lay it hair side down across a flat surface, such as a plywood board. Allow about 48 hours for the bear hide to dry.
  • Heat the tanning oil so that it is warm. You can do this in the microwave or on the stove.

    • Wearing gloves, take a paint brush and brush the heated tanning oil all over the skin of the hide. Let the hide absorb the oil for four hours.

  • Roll up the hide. Place it in a plastic bag and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the refrigerator the next day. Your bear hide is now tanned.
To Tan a Bear Skin Tips:
  • An untrained person risks damaging the bear during the long and tedious tanning process. There are well trained taxidermists who can efficiently tan a bear for a fee.
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How to Woodwork the Parts of an Arch  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Scars & Pigmentation, Skin Spots, Weight Management & Body Image
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How to Woodwork the Parts of an Arch
By Shawndra Russell
How to Woodwork the Parts of an Archthumbnail Archways can beautify your home.

Archways can add value and style to your home. They consist of plywood and 2-inch-by-4-inch boards and typically appear in hallways, doors and windows. Whatever the opening, archway construction methods are the same as long as no inherent structural bearings relate to where the construction will occur. The only things that change are the dimensions of the lumber and plywood. Here’s how to construct an archway in a corridor.

To Woodwork the Parts of an Arch You’ll Need:

  • Tape measure
  • 2-inch-by-4-inch boards
  • 2 sheets of 1/4″ plywood
  • Framing nails
  • Skill saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Framing square
  • Chalk line
  • Framing hammer or nail gun
  • Stud finder

To Woodwork the Parts of an Arch Instructions:

  • Measure the width of the hallway using a tape measure. This will be the overall length of the arch.
  • Mark and cut the plywood. Stretch the tape measure from one end of the plywood along the bottom edge and mark it using the measurement from Step 1. Pulling the tape measure from the same side, make another mark along the opposite edge on the plywood. Snap a chalk line connecting the two marks. Use the skill saw to cut the plywood along the chalk line. Make sure the cut is straight and the corners of the plywood are square. Repeat this step on another sheet of plywood to create two identical pieces.
  • Draw the elliptical shape of the arch on one of the pieces of plywood that was cut in Step 2. Make sure that the shape is drawn starting at the bottom edge of the piece of plywood.
  • Cut out the arch using the jigsaw. This will create one side of the archway, as well as the template to use for the other half of the archway.
  • Stack the piece of plywood that was just cut on top of the other sheet of plywood. Make sure that the edges are all flush with each other. Trace the arched shape onto the bottom piece of plywood. Cut the arch out with the jigsaw.
  • Make a mark at least four inches above the center point of the arch. This will be the top of the arch. Use the chalk line and skill saw to cut the excess plywood. Repeat this process for the second piece of plywood so they are identical.
  • Cut pieces of 2-inch-by-4-inch boards to the width you want for the archway. Keep in mind that the plywood you will nail to each side of these studs will add another 1/2 inch to the width, and the drywall will add more width as well. To allow for these materials, simply subtract the added width of the plywood and drywall from the length of the studs. After you cut the studs, mark a straight line across the ceiling that denotes where the front of the archway will be. It should be perpendicular to the corridor walls. Attach those pieces of 2-inch-by-4-inch boards every 16 inches along the ceiling where the arch will go. The ends of the studs should be perfectly flush with each other. Nail one stud flush where the ceiling meets the corridor walls.
  • Nail one of the pieces of plywood with the arch cut out to the studs you have secured to the ceiling. Secure with two framing nails at each of the studs attached to the ceiling. Repeat the process with the other piece of plywood, attaching it to the opposite end of the studs nailed to the ceiling.
  • Infill the bottom of the archway with pieces of 2-inch-by-4-inch studs every 16 inches, with the widest part of the stud facing the ground. This will create a better surface to which to attach the drywall. Ensure the studs are flush with the plywood before nailing. Drive two nails in both ends of the studs. The archway is now ready for drywall or other interior finishes.
To Woodwork the Parts of an Arch Tips:
  • Before attempting to secure the archway, ensure that there is an adequate nailing surface in the ceiling and walls and that the area is free of all water and electrical lines. A stud finder is handy to detect solid nailing surfaces.
To Woodwork the Parts of an Arch Warnings:
  • Always use the proper safety equipment when operating power tools. Protective eyewear will help prevent accidents.
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The Effect of Sunlight on Grass  

July 31st, 2011 Posted in Hair Growth & Loss, Weight Management & Body Image
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The Effect of Sunlight on Grass
By Kevin Ann Reinhart
The Effect of Sunlight on Grassthumbnail Solar energy, combined with water, produces nutrients for grass growth.

The blades of grass on your lawn use the sun’s energy and water to change carbon dioxide into a food source containing carbohydrates and carbon compounds. This transformative process is called photosynthesis. Each grass type has a different photosynthetic system that is adapted to the climate where the grass commonly grows. Cool season grasses begin photosynthesis with a three-carbon compound, while warm season grasses begin with a four-carbon array. Cool season grasses are therefore labeled C-3 and warm season are designated as C-4.

The Effect of Sunlight on Grass Instructions:

  • The Processes – The storage (mesophyll) cells in grass blades, commonly known as chloroplasts, contain chlorophyll- a substance that absorbs the red and blue light from the sun. We see the grass as green because the sun’s green light is not absorbed, but rather reflected to be perceived by receptor cones in our eyes. Photosynthesis is a two part process. The first, the light reaction, changes light energy into chemical energy. The second, the dark reaction, converts carbon dioxide into sugar.
  • The Light Reaction – The light reaction is so- called because the chemical reaction must occur in the presence of sunlight. Light is absorbed by clusters of pigments and directed to the central chlorophyll molecule where photosynthesis takes place. The energy produced is held in the plant cells with the help of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a chemical compound used by plant cells for energy storage. In ATP, adenine is bonded to a ribose sugar that is bonded in turn to three phosphates.
  • The Dark Reaction – The dark reaction does not require sunlight but does need the ATP produced by the light reaction. In this reaction, carbon dioxide and energy from ATP are combined to create molecules of glucose. This process is known as the Calvin cycle. Photosynthesis ceases to occur during hot, dry weather when carbon dioxide levels drop due to the excess evaporation of water from the surface of the leaves. The grass turns brown and becomes dormant until weather conditions allow the light and dark reactions to resume.
  • The Role of the Roots – The sun’s energy can only be captured if the grass roots supply enough water and minerals from the soil to the blades of grass. The supply process, known as transpiration, also shuts down during hot, dry spells. This protective measure allows the grass to store scarce water and mineral supplies deep in the roots until the weather improves. Stressed lawns may appear brown, dry and dead but most grasses will emerge from dormancy when growing conditions improve.
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How to Stud a Corner  

July 30th, 2011 Posted in Fitness
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How to Stud a Corner
By Brianna Gunter
How to Stud a Cornerthumbnail Wall studs create the frame of a building.

Wall studs are vertical planks of lumber or metal that create the frame of a building. In corners, multiple studs are grouped together to create the shape of a corner and provide support for the building. Knowing how to properly stud a corner is, therefore, vital to any construction project. Fortunately, the standard three-stud method for corners is a fairly simply process.

To Stud a Corner You’ll Need:

  • Two planks or “studs,” 2 by 4
  • Measuring tape
  • Two wall frames
  • Power saw or hand saw
  • Nail gun
  • Nails

To Stud a Corner Instructions:

  • Measure the height of the ceiling from the floor. You should have two walls already framed at this point, so subtract 4 inches from your measurement to account for the 2-by-4 planks running along the top and bottom of the frames. Cut your corner planks or “studs” to fit this measurement.
  • Skip to the next step if you already have one wall frame up. If not, stand the first wall frame straight up and position it where you want. Nail the base plank into the floor. Make sure the wall frame is straight. Push gently on the wall frame to ensure that it is tightly installed.

    • Nail the studs in flat.

  • Stand up the 2-by-4 studs on the inner side of the last stud of the frame where the frame will intersect with another frame to form a corner. Wedge them in, lined up vertically against the last stud. Nail them in securely without leaving any space between them.
  • The second wall frame completes the corner.
  • Raise the other wall frame. Position it so that it forms a 90-degree angle with the other frame. Make this angle on the side with the three studs and do not leave any space between the two frames. Nail the base plank to the floor. Put several nails through the inner side of the end plank of the second wall, securing it to the three studs at the end of the first wall.
To Stud a Corner Tips:
  • Drill wide holes through the studs to allow for wires to pass through if this is necessary.
  • Have some friends on hand to help you, particularly when positioning the wall frames or standing up the 2-by-4 studs.
  • Always practice caution while using construction tools.
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